At the beginning of 2024, Oceantrax embarked on the delivery of an Oyster 465 from Puerto Rico to Chesapeake Bay. Due to the weather conditions in January and February, it was decided to utilise the Intracoastal Waterway between Florida and Maryland.
We traveled from Puerto Rico to Grand Bahama, the nearest Bahamian island to the mainland USA. There, we waited for favourable weather to cover the roughly 60 nautical miles to America from Old Bahama Bay Marina, located on the island's westernmost point, where there is a convenient immigration office within the marina.
When a favourable weather window opened, we crossed during daylight hours to West Palm, which provides a straightforward entry into the ICW and has a yacht-friendly immigration office for clearing into the USA.
After completing all the paperwork, we began our journey north along the ICW, affectionately called ‘The Ditch’.
Approaching West Palm and entering Lake Worth Inlet
The Intracoastal Waterway extends roughly 1,090 statute miles from Mile Marker 1 in Norfolk, Virginia, to its terminus in Key West. It forms part of a 3,000-mile network of interconnected waterways that can transport you from Texas to Virginia. Private yachts can use the ICW without any fees.
The east coast ICW is composed of artificial canals, rivers, and connected bodies of water. While it sometimes shifts inland, it generally runs parallel to the coastline.
Along the way, there are fixed, lifting, bascule, and swing bridges. The lowest fixed bridge is the Julia Tuttle just north of Miami and has a clearance of 56 feet, or about 17 metres.
All other fixed bridges should have a minimum clearance of 65 feet, which is about 19.80 metres.
The Intracoastal features fixed and opening bridges
When nearing a bridge, you'll notice height marker boards indicating the clearance. Remember that tides and weather impact the ICW, so if your air draft is close to the limit, exercise caution, check the marker boards, and keep in mind that measurements in the USA are in feet!
The image below clearly shows the height marker boards at the base of the bridge, in this case showing just over 64 feet
To contact opening bridges, use VHF channel 13 or 9. If you're using Navionics, the channel will be shown in the bridge details on your chart. Some bridges open upon request, while others have fixed opening times, typically on the hour or half-hour, which can lead to a gathering of boats and congestion. Additionally, note that some bridges do not open during rush hours.
Depth can be challenging. Although the ICW is theoretically supposed to be dredged to a depth of 9ft/2.7 metres, many sections have shoaled, significantly reducing the depth, along with occasional underwater obstructions. The Oyster 465, with a draft of 2.1 meters, often faced difficulties, requiring us to cautiously and slowly navigate through. However, if you are unfortunate enough to make contact, the bottom is usually soft mud or sand.
In addition to the clear advantages of protected waters and avoiding the Gulf Stream, the ICW provides a chance to explore numerous regions of America. It traverses diverse landscapes, from the edge of the Caribbean Sea to Virginia's northern latitudes, and includes a variety of settlements, from small villages to cities and industrial zones.
It's also an excellent opportunity for wildlife observation, with numerous dolphins, manatees, and, if you're fortunate, perhaps an alligator, along with pelicans and shorebirds all within the canal.
The changing landscapes of the ICW from the blue waters of Florida to the murky waters of North Carolina
While we were in full yacht delivery mode, moving from dawn to dusk, we didn't have the opportunity to thoroughly explore many of the settlements we passed. However, a few memorable ones include Fort Pierce, where we bought some engine filters and made a quick stop at a Lidl for provisions; Savannah, where we actually enjoyed a day at rest, and Charlestown. We spent most nights in a marina and there are plenty of options, but be sure to check the depth before booking, as some are quite shallow and only suitable for power boats. In many areas, there is also the option to anchor just outside the main channel.
Navigating the ICW, certain sections, particularly through Georgia, North Carolina, and South Carolina, are quite winding. In these areas, the ICW consists of a series of interconnected rivers, and progress can be relatively slow. In contrast, sections like South Florida are straight and well-maintained.
The marker posts and buoys throughout the ICW are in good condition and adhere to the American red-right-returning system, with returning being southbound on the east coast. However, very few buoys are illuminated, so nighttime navigation is not recommended. Nonetheless, there were times when our progress was slower than expected, and we continued cautiously into the night to reach our reserved marina.
Marker posts are well maintained but rarely illuminated.
Channel markers can be confusing where channels from the sea intersect with the ICW, so a simple system of reflective yellow squares and triangles is used on the navigation aids; keep the triangles to starboard and the squares to port.
It's important to note that many inlets from the sea into the ICW are very shallow, with shifting sandbanks and unreliable depths. In strong tides or bad weather, they can be dangerous, so caution and entering during daylight are advised.
On our delivery, we only had to navigate one set of locks in Virginia just before reaching Norfolk. The basin for the locks is large and will easily accommodate the largest sailing yacht that will be able to transit the ICW.
Great Bridge Locks Virginia
Traffic on the ICW is generally manageable, with minimal commercial traffic, and most powerboats are respectful when overtaking. However, this is often not the case in southern Florida, especially on weekends, where it can be very busy with many powerboats and sometimes rather chaotic. Despite the presence of mammals like manatees, the ICW surprisingly has no speed limit, and these slow-moving animals are injured by boats every year.
We found Navionics to be quite adequate for information and navigation, providing details on bridge heights, marinas, and hazards, though some depth measurements might not be entirely accurate.
In conclusion, while traditional sailors might not favor the potential for extended motoring, the ICW allows for continued progress when sea conditions are unfavorable. It also offers the opportunity to explore fascinating parts of America with breathtaking scenery and wildlife. Sailing might be possible in certain areas with a favourable wind, but shallow depths outside the channel often limit these opportunities.
Finally complete in Chesapeake Bay after 12 days on the ICW from West Palm.
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